CELEBRATE 40 YEARS OF CLIMBING WITH A FREE PRINCETON TEC FUEL HEADLAMP!
To celebrate 40 years of Climbing we’re launching a special 40th Anniversary subscription offer where for only US$44.97 (that’s a 63% saving on the cover price), you’ll get the next 20 issues (2 years) of Climbing Magazine delivered to your door plus a Princeton Tec Fuel Headlamp absolutely FREE! 2010 marks Climbing’s 40th anniversary - with each issue, we offer a slice of the entire climbing world: sport, trad, bouldering, walls, ice, alpine, mountains.
Fort William Mountain Festival
A celebration of mountain culture on February 11-15, 2010 - Although the full details of the program for the 2010 Fort William Mountain Festival, now in it's ninth year, are yet to be announced organizers have promised a five day feast of lectures, workshops and films for residents and visitors who want to learn about and celebrate mountain culture; during the best winter walking and climbing conditions of the year.
Fifth Annual HERA Climb4Life Metro DC
The 5th Annual HERA Climb4Life Metro DC, an ovarian cancer fundraiser benefiting the HERA Women’s Cancer Foundation, is planned for March 13–21, 2010 at several sites in the Washington DC area. The event that features a series of instructional rock-climbing clinics, along with yoga classes and parties, attracted more than 450 participants in 2009 and raised more than $60,000.
2010 Red Rock Rendezvous - Las Vegas, Nevada
Registration has officially opened for the seventh annual “Mountain Gear Presents: Red Rock Rendezvous” (RRR) rock climbing festival, title sponsored by The North Face. RRR will return to the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area near Las Vegas on March 19-21, 2010, to benefit The Access Fund.
February 2010 - 282
FEAR IS OPTIONAL - The German Ines Papert is undoubtedly the world's best female all-around climber; LADDER(S) TO THE SKY - In 1492 Antoine de Ville established the world's first technical climb up Mont Aiguille; TEAM AMERICA: GRIT POLICE - Alex Honnold, Kevin Jorgeson, and Matt Segal on a gritstone warpath, onsighting, redpointing, and going groundup on UK's top testpieces
Dream Team
Today’s stoutest climbs blast out caves, roofs, and bulges,
requiring spider gyrations and disco footwork heel hooks,
bicycle moves, toe scums, etc. complementing traditional
edging and smearing. Which is where the FIVE TEN TEAM
5.10 ($144.95, fiveten.com) designed for the company’s
athletes and performance-minded public alike comes in.
Real Protection
Just because it’s cold doesn’t mean you can’t sunburn.
Snow, in fact, is an excellent reflector/doublebroiler.
Ergo, slather on the sunblock, which reflects
the sun (as opposed to sunscreen, which absorbs UV
radiation though might not ward off harmful UVA rays,
and can contain ingredients e.g., benzophenone and
homosalate with spotty health records). The good
news: CLIMB ON! SPF 30 MINERAL SUNBLOCK ($18,
climbonproducts.com) has only one active ingredient
zinc oxide.
Lawsuit Filed to Cut Through Red Tape Entangling Mexican Gray Wolf Recovery
2/08/10 - The Center for Biological Diversity filed suit today against the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service for its failure to act on a petition filed last August that would reshape and reinvigorate the Mexican gray wolf recovery effort.
Garland Announces New Position with Climb X
2/05/10 - Joseph Garland, formerly of Mad Rock North America, today announced his return to the outdoor industry with Climb X.
The CU Belay Glasses are the ultimate way to comfortably belay
1/29/10 - Upon wearing these glasses the belayer can see straight up while looking forward. They take little time to get used to and soon become a staple in any climber's pack.
FORT WILLIAM MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL 2010
1/29/10 - Fort William has announced a Mountain Festival programme, presented by The Outdoor Capital of the UK, that will put Fort William and Lochaber at the forefront of Scotland's events programme on February 11-15.
Investigative Report on Macho B - The last known living jaguar in Arizona
1/29/10 - At the request of Congressmen Raul M. Grijalva (D-AZ) and Nick Rahall II (D-WV), we initiated an investigation into the capture and death of a federally-listed endangered jaguar named Macho B, conceded by many to be the last known living jaguar in Arizona.
High Altitude Fitness - Incline Village, NV
High Altitude Fitness, formerly The Incline Athletic Club, was purchased by Jason Burd in 2006. His development plans include building Nevada's largest climbing wall. Permits for the project were approved and construction begins May 2008. In addition to free weights, cardio machines, & group classes, members can enjoy free wireless internet in the lobby, tanning, use of the newly re-modeled locker rooms (including steam rooms), and healthy snacks & coffees. Visit: www.highaltitudefit.net
CLIMBING MAGAZINE APPAREL
Climbing's T-shirts, hoodies and hats make great gifts for any Climbing Mag reader in your family - including yourself. All Items in stock: Men's Short Sleeve, Men's 40th Anniversary Long Sleeve, Men's 40th Anniversary Pullover Hoodie, Women's Short Sleeve, Women's 40th Anniversary Long Sleeve, Women's 40th Anniversary Pullover Hoodie, Kid's Short Sleeve, Baby Short Sleeve One Piece, and Baseball Cap.
PENMEN Cartoons
Updated 10/30/09 - Climbing.com is pleased to present the PENMEN Cartoons by Colorado Springs climber Gary Blehm. Visit his website penmen.com for posters, animations, music videos, games, and more...
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Bouldering in the Southeastern United States
Photos by Luke Laeser - The sandstone boulders of the southeastern states are becoming widely respected as world class climbing destinations that offer a variety of styles and grades for all climbers. The perfect grainy textures provide amazing friction on everything from horizontal roofs to sneaky slab problems. Shown in this gallery are photos taken over the last four years from the Stone Fort (aka Little Rock City) and Pot Point near Chattanooga, Tennessee; RockTown which lies to the west LaFayette, Georgia; and Horse Pens 40, to the north of Birmingham, Alabama.
Climbing in Belapur, Near Mumbai, India
Before I moved to Mumbai (formerly called Bombay) I started researching the climbing community. I found a climbing wall that is set just off of a school grounds in an area called Goregaon. The community at the wall is very active and dedicated, immediately accepting me and inviting me to join them regularly on their real rock adventures. Towards the end of 2009 I spent several weekends in an area called Belapur in New Bombay, inland a ways from Mumbai.
FIND A GUIDE - OR WHAT IT TAKES TO BE ONE
Updated 2/05/10 - The Dream Meets Education - Nothing can replace the simplicity of mentorship in the context of learning and nothing can overshadow the need for continuing education in climbing. For a pursuit in which ones survival literally relies on proper training it pays to get more than hard skills and a piece of paper from a course; the impact of mentors and friends in my development as a climber certainly cannot be overstated. Read interviews with Andrew Klotz, Mark Sedon, Ryan Waters, Marty Molitoris, Ryan Stefiuk, Joseph Vitti, Guy Cotter, Dave Elmore, Dick Jackson, Amos Mac Whiting, Adrian Ballinger , Pete Keane, and Markus Beck.
Updated 2/04/10 with Kaare Iverson's Blog from Hampi, India
"It had been two years since I was last in Hampi, India and things have taken a good turn for the climbers now. The industrious minds at Goan Corner (and by the time you read this, doubtless many more will catch on) have finally started to stock REAL climbing chalk (through Wildcraft in Bangalore) rather than trying to pass off talcum powder as the real thing. They've also replenished their rental crash pad supply with 30 some-odd NEW pads rather than the mangey leftovers from climbers past." Kaare Iverson Meet the Team and subscribe to their RSS feeds: Susan E.B. Schwartz; Bruce Willey; Misty Murphy; Martin Gutmann; Sarah Jane Alexander; Sara Lingafelter; Gregory Bahr; Daniel Holz; Niles Barnes; Emmanuel Lacoste; Greg Burns; Erica Lineberry; Kaare Iverson
Chris Sharma: The Legacy Continues
Video by Josh Lowell / PranaCollective - Chris Sharma's meteoric climbing career started when he won the Bouldering Nationals at age 14 and opened the hardest climb in America (at the time, 5.14c) a year later. In the decade that followed, Chris has continued to take climbing to a new level. Not only has he consistently shattered previous conceptions of difficulty, he was recently voted 8a Climber of the Decade. He has sent multiple 5.15 routes, bouldered V15, onsighted 5.14b, and established deep water solo routes at the highest grades.
Award-winning Documentary about world renowned Sheffield climber "Andy Parkin: Life in Adaptation"
By Weekday Productions courtesy of Blue Hippo Media - The documentary creatively profiles Andy Parkin life and work. It gives a powerful insight to the life of a remarkable man who is regarded as one of the world’s finest alpine climbers. In 1984 he suffered a near fatal Alpine climbing accident and many believed his love affair with mountains would be over. Having won the Jury’s special prize at Kendal 2008 and the Grand Prize at the Sheffield Adventure Film Festival this year as well as being finalist in Trento and Banff film festivals, Blue Hippo Media and Weekday Productions’ film ‘Andy Parkin a Life in Adaptation’ is now set for DVD release. CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE THE DVD "Andy Parkin: Life in Adaptation".
MEMORIAL MARIA LUISA XX EDITION WINNERS
Photos courtesy of Memorial Maria Luisa - The awards for the 20th annual competition have now been decided. From thousands of photographs the Jury has selected 104, with the ones shown here being the most memorable of the 2009 edition. You can view the entire selection now at memorialmarialuisa.com, although the real moment to enjoy them will be during the audiovisual presentation to be made at the prize giving ceremony in Oviedo, Spain on the 27th of February, 2010.
Euro Tour: Sunny Limestone in Italy and Southern France
Photos by Claudia Colonia - Featured in this gallery are photos from Alveare, an amazing climbing area in Italy, Finale Ligure. "Alveare" means beehive and shown here is Alessandro Penna (one of the best climbers in Italy) solving the moves on Hyaena, a super-pocketed, historical and very hard 8b (5.13d). Also featured are some photos from Buoux, Tenda Arimonda, Saint Legèr, Peillon and Monaco La Turbie. 26 year old Claudia Colonia is based in Cuneo, Italy and has been shooting photographs for about six years.
Carolina Climbers' Coalition - Rumbling Bald Project
Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) started off the new year by closing on the acquisition of Rumbling Bald West Side Boulders on January 6, 2010. The CCC and the Access Fund worked together to finalize the purchase of this popular bouldering area from a private developer and now it's time to raise funds and pay off the loan. If you've ever climbed at Rumbling Bald, if you ever plan to, or even if you never plan to, you can support our efforts and help us get the loans repaid!
2009 Golden Piton Awards
2009 has been a year of hardship and strife. It would be foolish to ignore the fact that the “recession” (OK, full-blown depression) continues. Or that America seems split down the middle on Big Issues like health care, climate change, and the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan. At Climbing, 2009 has spelled diminished resources and staff (only 1.5 editors, an intern, and an art director on the creative side), though more stress. Our story is the same as everywhere.
Successful conclusion to first ever European Ice Climbing Youth Championship
The first ever European Ice Climbing Youth Championship has been concluded in Saas Grund, Switzerland on January 16th, 2010. The men's overall winner was Russia's Alexey Iakovlev. His compatriot, Liubov Mikryukova, took top honors among the young women. The Swiss team also did well. Go here for more results.
Alpine Time Machine
Ever wish you could travel back to climbing’s early days and follow the
earliest first-ascent visionaries? This fantasy comes to life in Daniel
Arnold’s Early Days in the Range of Light: Encounters with Legendary
Mountaineers ($28, counterpointpress.com). Arnold, cleverly,
chose 15 classic peaks in California’s High Sierras and spent three
years studying the lives of the peaks’ pioneers, groundbreakers like
John Muir, Clarence King, and Norman Clyde.
Alaska Climber Injured in Haiti Earthquake
Christa Brelsford, of Anchorage, Alaska, was volunteering in Dabonne, south of Port-au-Prince, Haiti, on an 11-day program to teach adult and child literacy when the quake hit. It took her brother Julian and their friends nearly an hour and a half to dig her from debris, her legs trapped by rubble when a building collapsed. Her right leg was amputated from the shin down. Visit: keepchristaclimbing.org to learn more and to make a donation.
Alan Carne: British Expat King of the Verdon
I was born in Manchester in the industrial north of England in 1960. Some would say on the wrong side of the Pennines, being one hour from the Gritstone Edges as opposed to Sheffield being only 20 minutes. But I have always loved my hometown, Its fine old Victorian buildings, Its industrial heritage, and though less well known for, a certain mountaineering heritage. British legends such Don Whillans, Joe Brown, Alex Macintyre, Al Rouse, and others were from Manchester or nearby.
TAWOCHE 2k10 Dispatches
Videos by Renan Ozturk / Verticalcarnival.blogspot.com - Renan Ozturk and Cory Richards overcame loose rock and dehydration to complete the first ascent of the central south buttress of Tawoche, a circa 6,500-meter (21,325') peak in the Khumbu region of Nepal. The two men spent two and a half days on the route, followed by another day and a half of descent. Ozturk, based in Boulder, Colo., and Richards, out of Canmore, Alberta, said the line was 1,200 meters high and graded ED2 VI 5.10 M4/5.
Vortex (V10), Sassafras Knob, North Carolina
Video by Thomas C. Webb - Vortex sits on Sassafras Knob in the Pisgah National Forest outside of Boone, NC. It was first discovered by Zach Lesch-Huie but was first climbed with the collaborative effects of Pat Goodman and Pat Stone. Vortex stands at an intimidating 17 feet tall and is given the grade of V10. Shown in this video comp crusher Alex Johnson, plus North Carolinians Pat Goodman and Jessa Goebel get sucked into the magical, mystical Vortex.
Tech Tip - Trad - SCUM MANIFESTO
By Matt Samet - Total friction with 7 neglected body parts - “Knees off the rock, Samet!” barked my instructor, an old-school mountain clubber in New Mexico. This was 22 years ago, and I flapped up a 5.6 corner to a midway ledge. Unsure how to highstep and rock over, I’d pressed a knee to its lip, scrabbling for purchase.
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