Climbing
Choose your Passion:
Survivors
Illustrations by Jamie Givens - Most climbing accidents happen suddenly, progress quickly, and they’re soon over. Very few climbs result in true survival situations, in which the misery and uncertainty are prolonged for days or even weeks. For this issue, we surveyed readers and climbing historians and writers to collect 25 stories of stamina, ingenuity, and human will. Our hope is to remind readers to take care and prevent accidents—to “do nothing in haste, look well to each step,” as Whymper famously said after the Matterhorn tragedy.



 
February 2012 - 302
COVER: Thomasina Pidgeon on Cutting Edge (V4) at Squamish, BC. Photo by Rich Wheater / age fotostock. THE SANDSTONE ALPS: Utah's San Rafael Reef isn't for everyone. And that's exactly why some climbers love it. THE GOLDEN PITONS: Climbing's 10th annual survey of the year's most outrageous climbing achievements. CATSKILLS ICE: New York's Catskill Park is a little-known mecca for ice climbing, within a half day's drive of millions of people.
 

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Dave Graham and Memory is Parallax (V14)
Video by Bear Cam Media - Follow Dave Graham and others as they try this crimping masterpiece located just outside RMNP in Colorado. Graham finished the problem in December and named it Memory is Parallax and suggested V14. Graham has opened more than a dozen V14s, and has climbed more than three dozen. What he said about Memory is Parallax: "Amazing climbing with drop knees, smears, and small crimps."
 
Mayan Gobat-Smith on the Salathé Wall (VI 5.13b)
Video by Five Ten - In October 2011, New Zealander Mayan Gobat-Smith freed the Salathé Wall (VI 5.13b) on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. On her blog, she said, "Free climbing El Capitan has always been a dream of mine," she said on her blog. "Something which I have always aspired to ever since I started climbing. I have always had a fascination for big walls, and loved being in exposed, beautiful places." Read more here.
 
Pole Power
Four trekking poles that lighten your load - Climbers carry a lot of gear. And for precisely that reason, adding one more piece—a pair of trekking poles—could actually make your approach and descent 10 times more comfortable. Trekking poles spread the stress of a heavy pack to four points (two legs and two poles), and can give you balance and stability for river crossings, talus fields, and steep ascents or descents. Trekking poles have traditionally been awkward to carry, but new ultra-light sticks fit inside your bag and barely register on the scale.
 


 



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