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 AMPED
By Andrea Sutherland from Climbing No. 280 / Photos by Claudia Lopez, Federica Valabrega and Kyle Queener - THREE WOUNDED IRAQ WAR VETERANS RECOUNT THEIR NEAR-DEATH STORIES AND TRIUMPHANT CLIMBS BACK HOME - Since the start of the Afghanistan and Iraq wars, in 2001 and 2003, respectively, nearly 2 million troops have deployed. More than 5,000 have been killed in action, with roughly 40,000 injured.  DREAMTIME
A LOCAL'S-EYE VIEW OF SWITZERLAND'S MAGICAL BLOCS - "It's a nice achievement to do this bouldering portfolio about my country, in the style of climbing I like the most," says the Swiss boulderer/photographer Fred Moix, who spent the last six years shooting his native stones. "It was like a personal mission, a kind of legacy I wanted to give."  THE SEARCH - Adventure Boudering in Bolivia
We lash packs to our backs and crashpads to our shoulders. I’ve been in La Paz, Bolivia, and on the nearby volcanoes for three weeks, and now, with the arrival of three friends from France, the French Team has become four: Ziza, Tony, Steph, and me, the Dod. No more ice axe and crampons — now it’s boulders, not summits, that I seek. Where we will find them in this vast, deserted country, I am not sure.  Globetrotters
Welcome to the Rocklands, the internationally famous, world-class bouldering destination that most Americans have heard of, but few have visited. This could very well be the world’s best — and biggest — bouldering area. It is but a miniscule chunk of the greater Cederberg mountain range,  The Complete Jim Holloway Interview
In 1975, Jim Holloway, 6' 4" and with cable for tendons, shoed up beneath Cloud Shadow Wall, above Boulder, Colorado. His project lay on the convex east end of the sandstone face. Holloway fished his right hand into a fingertip undercling, crimped the left on a layaway, and pulled on.  Stone Monkeys - Visions of the modern-age Stonemasters
By Cedar Wright - Photos by Dean Fidelman - The Stone Monkeys are a slightly more inclusive, modern-day equivalent of the “Stonemasters,” the amorphous band of Valley hardmen who pushed the limits of climbing in the 1970s and ‘80s. However, to be a Stone Monkey, you don’t have to climb hard or be famous (though quite a few Monkeys fit this bill). 
 2010 Red Rock Rendezvous - Las Vegas, Nevada
Registration has officially opened for the seventh annual “Mountain Gear Presents: Red Rock Rendezvous” (RRR) rock climbing festival, title sponsored by The North Face. RRR will return to the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area near Las Vegas on March 19-21, 2010, to benefit The Access Fund.  U of Utah Students Take Home the "Top Climber" Title at Westminster’s Intercollegiate Climbing Wall Competition
Two students from the University of Utah once again took home bragging rights as “top boulderers” at Westminster College’s second annual intercollegiate climbing wall competition November 17, 2009. More than 40 students from colleges throughout the state, including Westminster College, University of Utah, Utah State University, Weber State University, Utah Valley University and Salt Lake Community College participated in the contest – the largest group to compete thus far.  Earth Treks 2010 Roc Comp
Come rub shoulders with your climbing idols, snort chalk and celebrate the power of this sport in Columbia and Timonium, Maryland on April 23rd & 24th at Earth Treks Climbing. Climb side by side with some of the biggest names in climbing today like Lisa Rands, Paul Robinson, Charlotte Jouet-Bosley, and Matt Bosley. $11,000 cash purse, loads of prizes, slideshows, movies, food, parties, DJs, thousands screaming spectators - you don't want to miss this! 
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 Natalija Gros - New Dimension Teaser
Video by FilmIT.si sports division and New Partisan Cinema - The Ljubljana based 25 year old has been climbing since age 6, began competing at age 9, climbed a 5.13d in 2002, in 2006 she redpointed 5.14c (Histerija at Misja Pec) and onsighted 5.13b. On her website she commented that, "Now, I can't imagine life without climbing, without competitions, which at the moment really mean me a lot. I want to dedicate this few years to competitions, and achive as many tops and good results."  Chris Sharma: The Legacy Continues
Video by Josh Lowell / PranaCollective - Chris Sharma's meteoric climbing career started when he won the Bouldering Nationals at age 14 and opened the hardest climb in America (at the time, 5.14c) a year later. In the decade that followed, Chris has continued to take climbing to a new level. Not only has he consistently shattered previous conceptions of difficulty, he was recently voted 8a Climber of the Decade. He has sent multiple 5.15 routes, bouldered V15, onsighted 5.14b, and established deep water solo routes at the highest grades.  Carolina Climbers' Coalition - Rumbling Bald Project
Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) started off the new year by closing on the acquisition of Rumbling Bald West Side Boulders on January 6, 2010. The CCC and the Access Fund worked together to finalize the purchase of this popular bouldering area from a private developer and now it's time to raise funds and pay off the loan. If you've ever climbed at Rumbling Bald, if you ever plan to, or even if you never plan to, you can support our efforts and help us get the loans repaid!  A Portrait of Fred Nicole
Video by Chuck Fryberger / PranaCollective - Swiss climber Fred Nicole has been bouldering at the leading edge of pure difficulty for over 25 years, continuing to redefine human possibility. His prolific tick list spans decades and the world, ranging from V13 to the almost supernatural grade of V16. Fred was the first to boulder V13 and also V14, although he does not assign grades to his own problems, relying on consensus from other climbers. Fred sees climbing as an art form, where a person can express ones self through movement.  Paul Robinson: Inside The Climbers Guild
Video by Chuck Fryberger / PranaCollective - Paul Robinson started climbing at the age of 10. In the last decade, he has bouldered V15, and sent literally hundreds of problems in V14 ,V13 ,V12 and V11 range. Not surprisingly, he has placed first in most of the international bouldering competitions he has entered. Paul is also an accomplished artist and painter majoring in Fine Arts at the University of Colorado. He writes a lively, blog about his exploits and traveling around the world promoting the climbing lifestyle. 
 Bouldering in Belapur, India
Photos by Scott Clark / scottclarkphotography.net - In the fall of 2009 I began climbing with a great group of Indian climbers in the "mountains" surrounding Belapur, near Mumbai, in western India. The local climbers are strong and dedicated, spending seemingly every weekend climbing somewhere in the area. They come from all over — from Lower Parel in Central Mumbai to Pune, three hours further to the East. They search out new cliff lines to climb every possibility, mostly bouldering but also some sport routes too. From this site you can Mumbai in the distance through the haze.  L'isola che non c'e - The island does not exist
Photos by Stefan Kürzi / www.stefankuerzi.ch - Swiss world-class climber Fred Nicole completed another milestone last year on the 14th of March, 2009. His new route L’isola che non c’è (Translation: The island does not exist) is located in a cave near Amden, Switzerland, and sitstarts at the lowest point following a logical and natural line about 15 meters long to the exit of the cave. Because the cave is situated in the middle of a cliff, its exit is more than 10 meters above the ground. Nicole decided to climb the exit with a rope. He didn’t grade the boulder, but thinks it’s somewhere in the 9th french grade.  ABS Youth Regionals - Urban Rocks Gym - Chattanooga, TN
Photos by Sam Silvey / SamSilvey.com - On Saturday, January 16, 2010, Urban Rocks Gym was proud to bring the first ABS Regional to Chattanooga, TN. The comp featured some of the Southeast's best young climbers (ages 5–18) pullin' down hard with a full day of bouldering action plus raffles, food, prizes, awards and more. An ABS regional championship is the competition that determines which climbers get invited to the National Championship to be held next month in Alexandria, VA. Special thanks to USA Climbing's Chris Danielson (head route setter) and Mark Mercer (head judge) for helping make a successful event. For competition results visit: USAClimbing.org. 
 Tech Tip - Training - TARGETED OPPOSITION
By Stacy Mccooey, MSPT, DPT - TENDONITIS — LIKE IT OR NOT, if you’re an avid climber, at some point you’ll feel that deep, dull ache in your elbows or shoulders, a sign of inflamed tendons. The constant tugging is what does us in — using loads of pulling muscles (lats, shoulders, biceps, forearms) while neglecting the pushing muscles (pectorals, anterior deltoids, triceps), thus placing unidirectional strain on your tendons.  Tech Tip - Sport - Eco-friendly bouldering
With public land managers clued in to the existence of us Pad People and closures looming left and right, it’s time to start bouldering smart and reducing impact. |
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