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Above & Beyond
Feature articles, stories and trip reports
A collection of climbing stories from climbers around the world. To submit your work, please contact amanda.fox@skrammedia.com. |
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 Romancing the Stones
As any old mountain goat will tell you, in the piton days of yore, men climbed together, slept together, and ate from the same can with the same spoon — brotherhood-of-the- rope stuff. Although not quite Brokeback Mountaineers, these men chased away their loneliness with wine and women . . . when they could afford or entice either. Then a paradigm shift occurred, improving the sport more than sticky rubber or cams. Women began to flow over the stone, scrubbing away the testosterone stains and proving that climbing is a wholly human endeavor. Broad generalizations aside, there have always been women climbers...  Teton Climbing Achievements Announced
Climbing historian, guidebook author and TBP volunteer Renny Jackson has compiled a list of the most significant achievements in Teton climbing history. The list will serve as the foundation for the historical component of the bouldering park we seek to build at the base of Snow King Mountain in downtown Jackson Hole. We are publishing it here in full, and we actively encourage feedback from climbers and historians to help us finalize the list.  5.13+ Barefoot Free Solo
Photos and video by Djamila Proft / dustinthewind1973 - Andreas Proft barefoot free solos the 25 meter Excess Power, a 8a+ or 5.13c ex-trad route, that's now a fully bolted sport route, in Costa Blanca's Echo Valley, Spain. In an email Proft commented that "It took me many tries to get comfy enough [on the route] and cost me some sleep as well." The 36-year-old German has sent a number of other hard 5.13 routes all without rockshoes. See Footloose and Fancy Free for more about Proft's barefoot endeavors.  World Cup Ice Climbing Crowns Old and New Champions
Austria's Markus Bendler and Russia’s Pavel Gulyaev have defended their Ice Climbing titles in the Lead and Speed disciplines respectively. This year’s women’s Lead champion is Anna Gallyamova of Russia, and her compatriot, Nadezda Shubina was crowned Speed queen. Go here for full results.  Luckiest Man alive and the Widow Maker
Okay climbers, this is an article for you! You know who you are. You, like me, will watch your favorite sports on Sundays, after a gym climbing workout; may eat healthy food with friends; and for the most part are extremely physical in almost all sports, and pretty much ignore your wife, partner, or friends if they tell you that you ought to get pesky little health things checked out, right?  Mountain Weather
Updated 2/18/10 by Michael Fagin - Weekly updates on mountain weather for a different location each week and updated every Thursday. We will cover the following: Alps, Cascades, Sierra, Aconcagua, and more will be added. Lead forecaster Michael Fagin has been providing mountain weather forecasts since the 1970's.  Climbing On The Edge of The World
As our boat left the Harbor out of Ha Long City, my friend, Greg Troutman and I got our first glimpse at the cliffs we traveled halfway across the world to climb. Dark and ominous they rose out of the ocean with a menacing white tint, piercing the horizon. Ha Long Bay, located off the northwest coast of Vietnam is an awe-inspiring site for those who are lucky enough to see it.  Panoramas from Boston Rock Gym's 2010 Heart of Steel
Watertown, MA based photographer William Van Tassell captured these awesome 360º panorama images at Boston Rock Gym's 2010 Heart of Steel Bouldering Competition on January 30th, 2010. Flaunting a $2,400 cash purse in addition to a gorgeous line-up of prizes the HEART OF STEEL appeal speaks for itself.  The AscenDance Project
AscenDance Project is a new company founded in January of 2006 by German born performance artist and rock climber Isabel von Rittberg to create work that explores the aesthetics of climbing. Performing entirely without the use of ropes, their work exhibits strength and grace enhanced by the effects of gravity on the dancers and their ability to overcome it. Check it out from March 5-14th at The Ashby Stage in Berkeley, CA.  Climbing in Belapur, Near Mumbai, India
Before I moved to Mumbai (formerly called Bombay) I started researching the climbing community. I found a climbing wall that is set just off of a school grounds in an area called Goregaon. The community at the wall is very active and dedicated, immediately accepting me and inviting me to join them regularly on their real rock adventures. Towards the end of 2009 I spent several weekends in an area called Belapur in New Bombay, inland a ways from Mumbai.  Boston Rock Gym - Panorama Mania
Watertown, MA based photographer William Van Tassell captured these awesome 360º panorama images at Boston Rock Gym's 2009 Heart of Steel Bouldering Competition. Don't miss the 2010 competition on January 30th, 2010. Flaunting a $2,400 cash purse in addition to a gorgeous line-up of prizes provided by a flock of industry leading sponsors, the HEART OF STEEL appeal speaks for itself.  Alaska Climber Injured in Haiti Earthquake
Christa Brelsford, of Anchorage, Alaska, was volunteering in Dabonne, south of Port-au-Prince, Haiti, on an 11-day program to teach adult and child literacy when the quake hit. It took her brother Julian and their friends nearly an hour and a half to dig her from debris, her legs trapped by rubble when a building collapsed. Her right leg was amputated from the shin down. Visit: keepchristaclimbing.org to learn more and to make a donation.  Alan Carne: British Expat King of the Verdon
I was born in Manchester in the industrial north of England in 1960. Some would say on the wrong side of the Pennines, being one hour from the Gritstone Edges as opposed to Sheffield being only 20 minutes. But I have always loved my hometown, Its fine old Victorian buildings, Its industrial heritage, and though less well known for, a certain mountaineering heritage. British legends such Don Whillans, Joe Brown, Alex Macintyre, Al Rouse, and others were from Manchester or nearby.  The Longest Climb - Part 3
Well rested, well fed, well family feuded and well excited, it is time to hit 2010 running. After far too much indulgence, and not nearly enough contact, let alone climbing, we have both let it slip somewhat over the festive period, and it is with a sense of courageous trepidation that we sit here, staring at the last 6 months until the day when Jonny and I will race against each other to set a new world record; to climb 8,848 meters on an indoor wall.  Teton Boulder Project Releases Design Plans
Bouldering Park scheduled for construction in Summer 2010 - Jackson, Wyo. Organizers of the Teton Boulder Project have released plans for a bouldering park they seek to construct at the base of Snow King Mountain in downtown Jackson Hole. The park, which is being designed by Nona Yehia and Jefferson Ellinger of E/Ye Design under the auspices of Teton County Parks and Recreation Department, is scheduled for construction in Summer 2010.  Ice Climbing World Cup in Kirov, Russia
Last year’s overall winner, Austria’s Markus Bendler, has proven he is still the man to beat on the Ice Climbing World Cup circuit. Bendler took first place in the challenging Lead competition this weekend (January 7- 9, 2010) in Kirov, Russia. For the women, Italy’s Angelika Rainer came first, letting the world know she is ready to challenge for the overall top spot, after finishing second in 2009.  Pianos Rachados 2009 - A New Crack Climbing Event in Portugal
Portugal climbing is best known for its excellent limestone cliffs next to the ocean, providing hard, overhanging sport routes, but not its trad climbing... But now, near to Lisbon, south of the surfing mecca, Ericeira, an outstandingly gorgeous cliff of black basalt with perfect splitter cracks was recently discovered. The place might remind you of UK's Peak District with exuberant evergreen shrubs and gray to black rock.  A Climber in Iraq
His fingers curl over the crimpy hold as his left hand reaches for a sweat slick sloper. He ascends the wall, ignoring the hum of the air-conditioner, the aggressive flies, the fluorescent lights, the heat and drafts of dust. At the top he hangs for a moment on the two-by-four plank and then drops to the worn padding of blue mats and grey-yellow mattresses. Outside the roar of a Blackhawk’s rotor blades and engines ruffles the tent’s ceiling over the climber’s head, but after nine months in country he hardly notices these sounds anymore.  MATTERHORN MADNESS UNMASKED
Story and photos by John Wutzer - It all began back in 2006 when a couple climbing friends and I decided to attempt to climb the Matterhorn. We reserved a guide but a trail climb to test our Alpine skills was first in order. We were led on a 6 hour exhausting half traverse of the Breithorn that challenged us beyond our imagination. We completed the journey but lacking top fitness and more, it left us physically drained, mentally down and beaten by the mountain. It was determined that we were under-skilled in a variety of mountaineering and climbing aspects thereby deemed unsuited for the Matterhorn.  Bindhammer's Marathon Through The Roof at Santa Linya
Andreas Bindhammer repeats La Novena Enmienda (9a+ or 5.15a) - The Catolonia region of Spain is known for its denseness of difficult routes. And one area stands out extremely: The Cova Grande cave at Santa Linya, in the cooler months is know as ‘the important meeting place’ of the international climbing scene and an ideal training area. Countless lines promise great challenges at the highest level. |
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