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Hot Flashes News      
By Dougald MacDonald and the Climbing Magazine Team
Hot Flashes reports the world's most up-to-date climbing news. From alpine big walls to local bouldering comps Hot Flashes gives you the the most accurate report first.
  
 
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Nose Speed Record is Broken
7/02/08 - Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama have broken the speed record for climbing the Nose of El Capitan.
 
Pamela Varco Onsights Lucille Offwidth
7/01/08 - Pamela Pack Varco has onsighted Lucille (5.12+) at Vedauwoo, Wyoming, making the first female ascent and likely fifth or sixth overall ascent of the legendary offwidth and squeeze chimney.
 
Hirayama-Florine Nearly Regain Nose Record
6/30/08 - Last fall, when Alexander and Thomas Huber broke the record for speed-climbing the Nose of El Capitan, Hans Florine vowed to retake the record that he had set in 2002 with Yuji Hirayama.
 
German Team Explores Remote Baffin Walls
6/24/08 - A five-man German expedition led by well-known climbers Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper has completed an arduous expedition along the coast of northeastern Baffin Island, including the first ascent of a 2,300-foot big-wall route.
 
AAC Sends Bradford Washburn's Camera to Space
6/20/08 - John Grunsfeld, a life-long member of the AAC and lead astronaut on the Hubble Telescope mission will blast off this fall, 2008.
 
McClure Bags Third Ascent of Rhapsody (E11 7a)
6/19/08 - The English climber Steve McClure nabbed the third ascent of Dave MacLeod’s Dumbarton Rock, Scotland, testpiece, Rhapsody (E11 7a; 5.14c R/X) on June 15, just six days after Sonnie Trotter redpointed the route, for its second ascent.
 
Pent Up in the Black Canyon - New 5.12 Added to Colorado's Somber Gorge
6/16/08 - On June 7, Jason Nelson, Jack Jeffries, and Cody Sims, put up Pent Up, (5.12c 700 feet), a new seven-pitch Black Canyon line.
 
New Route on Kichatna Spire
6/12/08 - Zack Smith and Josh Wharton have climbed a new ice and mixed route to the summit of Kichatna Spire in Alaska.
 
Norwegians Repeat Historic Trango Route
6/11/08 - A four-man Norwegian team has made the probable second complete ascent of the Norwegian Buttress (VII 5.10+ A4) on Great Trango Tower in Pakistan. (New Photos Added - 6/16/08)
 
A 20-Hour Magic Mushroom Trip: Caldwell Raises The Bar (again) for El Capitan Free Climbing
6/11/08 - 20 hours and 2 minutes — that’s how long it took Tommy Caldwell to free-climb Magic Mushroom (VI 5.14a), a strong contender for the world’s hardest big wall, in a single push, leading every pitch.
 
Sonnie Trotter Repeats Rhapsody
6/10/08 - Canadian Sonnie Trotter has repeated Rhapsody on Dumbarton Rock, Scotland, the first route in Great Britain given the E11 grade.
 
Alex Johnson Wins Vail World Cup
6/08/08 - As often happens at World Cup comps, the host country’s climbers stepped up this weekend to thrill the hometown crowd.
 
Americans Strong in Teva Qualifiers
6/07/08 - North American boulderers put on a very strong showing in the opening round of the Bouldering World Cup, hosted by the annual Teva Mountain Games in Vail, Colorado.
 
New York Times Building Climbed Twice
6/06/08 - The world-renowned, free-soloist Alain "Spider-Man" Robert climbed the 52-story New York Times building on Thursday morning to raise awareness about global warming.
 
Alpinists Complete 100-Mile Mega-Traverse
6/06/08 - Alaskan Joe Stock, along with partners Dylan Taylor and Andrew Wexler, have completed a coveted 100-mile traverse of the Tordrillo Mountains, a western subrange of the Alaska Range.
 
Fallen Solo Climber Rescued From Peters Glacier
6/05/08 - Denali mountaineering rangers led a life-saving technical rope rescue of a fallen solo climber on Mt. McKinley the evening of June 3. (New Photos Added - 6/06/08)
 
Japanese "Warmed Up" on New Alaskan Testpiece
6/04/08 - Before completing their superb link-up of the Isis Face and Slovak Route on Denali in May, Japanese climbers Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato, and Katsutaka Yokoyama completed the first ascent of the intimidating northeast face of Bear Tooth.
 
Sharma Climbs 5.15, Heads to Vail World Cup
6/03/08 - On the eve of the Vail World Cup, Chris Sharma has established a new 9a+ (5.15a) in Spain, his second new 9a or harder of the month.
 
Britain's Got Talent: Champions Crowned in Blackpool
6/03/08 - British climbers showed their climbing prowess as they battled it out at the PlanetFear British Lead Climbing Championships at Blackpool Climbing Towers this weekend (24-25 May, 2008).
 
McClure's new 5.15a Plus Q and A
6/02/08 - On May 20, 2008, Steve McClure, 37, freed his super-sustained 100-foot crimpfest project on the North Buttress at Kilnsey Crag, in Yorkshire, U.K., on his second redpoint attempt.
 
Climbers Lost Near End of Huge Alaskan Traverse
5/30/08 - The National Park Service has called off the active search for Japanese climbers Yuto Inoue, 24, and Tatsuro Yamada, 27, who disappeared high on the Cassin Ridge of Denali this month. (Updated - 6/02/08)
 
Massive Link-Up and Missing Climbers in Alaska
5/28/08 - A trio of Japanese climbers with years of experience in the Alaska Range completed a monumental link-up of hard routes on Denali over eight days in mid-May.
 
76 and 75 Atop Mt. Everest
5/27/08 - A 76- and 75-year-old have summited Mt. Everest, setting new age records for the world’s highest mountain.
 
Caldwell and Sjong free El Capitan's Magic Mushroom
5/25/08 - This May, over the course of five days and in an uninterrupted push from the ground, Tommy Caldwell, 29, and Justen Sjong, 35, added a new first-free El Cap free feather to their already accomplished caps — Magic Mushroom (VI 5.13d/14a) — climbed from May 12 through 16.
 
 
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