Beautiful New Route in Pakistan

Himalayan veterans Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff from France have climbed a difficult route in pure alpine style to make the first ascent of 7,350-meter Pumari Chhish South. Trommsdorff, who had attempted the peak twice in 2003, called the granite and ice pyramid in Pakistan’s Hispar Mustagh region “perhaps the most beautiful virgin summit in the world.”

The two men climbed the 2,700-meter south face in four and a half days, with another day and a half for the descent. Sustained rock, mixed, and ice climbing between 6,400 meters and 7,000 meters formed the crux, with free climbing on excellent granite up to 5.10- and M6; the two aided one 50-foot overhanging chimney crack. They descended by downclimbing and about 35 rappels. Trommsdorff said the face somewhat resembled the north face of the Eiger, “except that it’s twice as high and twice as long, and the rock is an absolutely splendid granite.”

In addition to the French climbers’ attempts, this line had been tried twice by Julie Ann Clyma and Roger Payne, who experienced a darker side of the peak. During their first attempt, in 1999, they were hit by three avalanches at their third bivouac, and the following year they had another storm and were attempting to descend when the sun came out and triggered avalanches that temporarily buried Clyma at the end of her belay rope; both were unharmed, but they were forced to climb back to their bivy and retreat the next day in colder temperatures. For their successful attempt, Graziani and Trommsdorff benefited from six days of beautiful weather.

 Date of Ascent: Summit reached June 12, 2007

 Sources: Christian Trommsdorff, Roger Payne, American Alpine Journal

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