IMS Bouldercup - Brixen, Italy
Photos by Franz Walter / www.nanuuq.net - On November 3-8, 2009, the International Mountain Summit kicked off a week activities and presentations dedicated to everything about mountains and alpine sports in the Italian town of Bressanone/Brixen in the South Tyrol. Mountaineering legends like Reinhold Messner and Chris Bonington, plus a number of other world famous climbing celebrities attended the summit like: Steve House, Ines Papert, Peter Habeler, Hans Kammerlander, Stephan Siegrist, Simone Moro and Stefan Glowacz. Next to top-notch presentations a bouldering competition also took place complete with world cup competitors Kilian Fischhuber, Anna Stöhr, Jonas Baumann and Daniel Woods. For more info visit: www.ims.bz
Expedition to the Khumbu Valley and Cholatse, Nepal
Photos by Felix Berg / www.SummitClimb.com - his post-monsoon expedition had the goal of exploring the less traveled Cholatse (6443m) mountain in the middle of the Khumbu Valley in Nepal. The style was alpine and light, the team just made up by Robert Steiner and myself, both German nationals. We left Frankfurt on the 14th of September with a cheap and badly timed Air India flight, had a day in Katmandu for organization, and arrived to the Khumbu at the rough little airport of Lukla town with its short uphill landing strip on the 17th. We hiked in through the beautiful Khumbu Valley, surprised at the development of internet, coffee shops and prices, to reach base camp on the 22nd of September. Read more.
Upper and Lower Town Walls, Index, Washington
Photos by Ben Gilkison / www.bentroy.com - If you measure a crag’s merits by rock quality and the influential climbers who there perfected their technique, there can be no doubt Index holds a very special place in the pantheon of granite climbing areas. Index locals know the bullet-hard, fine-grained granite, the splitter cracks, and the faces pimpled with dime-sized chickenheads and edges rivaled anything those Californians have down south. On a clear day at least. Click here to read the feature article from Climbing Magazine No. 179 - INDEX CLUB - The First Rule of Index... You Don’t Talk About Index
DWS: The Mallorca Experience
Photos by Chris Weidner - Over three weeks in September, five North Face team members (Emily Harrington, Alex Honnold, James Pearson, Matt Segal and Cedar Wright), two photographers (Tim Kemple and Patrick Bagley), and eight other climbers (Sam Elias, Emily Brazenall, Beck Kloss, Matt Bird, George Taylor, Cerian Lewis, Emma Coombes and myself) rallied to the Spanish island of Mallorca that sits just east of the mainland in the Mediterranean Sea. On any given day there were between seven and twelve of us sharing a house, partying, and trying not to fall. The 20 to 60-foot limestone sea cliffs were our boulders, and the Med was our crash pad. Every climbing day involved salty air, humid rock, spoogy shoes, and extra chalk plus an extraordinary dose of fear. Read more at DailyCamera.com.
Climbing.com Covershows - 2009
A collection of covershots from many great photographers and adventurers that graced the homepage in 2009. Images from Photopost, Hot Flashes, Photo Galleries, Events, Extended Features ... I would like to thank all of our dedicated contributors and uploaders for making Climbing.com what it is today. —Luke Laeser — Climbing.com Online Editor
French Climb South Spur of Nemjung in Nepal
Photos by Christian Trommsdorff and Yannick Graziani - French alpinists Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff have climbed the south spur of 7,140-meter (23,425-foot) Nemjung in Nepal. The two climbed the route in a six-day round trip on October 11-16, 2009, reaching a high point of approximately 6,900 to 7,000 meters atop the south face, but they did not continue across the long easy ridge to the peak’s summit. Graziani and Trommsdorff had hoped to climb nearby Manaslu but could not acclimatize sufficiently because of too much snow and poor weather. Before starting up Nemjung, they had only three nights above 5,000 meters, followed by a 12-day period of stormy weather. READ MORE.
2009 PSYCHEDELIA at The Spot Gym
Photos by Adam Bove / adambove.carbonmade.com - The craziest, most unique and bizarre climbing event of the year went down on Saturday, October 24th, at The Spot Bouldering Gym in Boulder, Colorado. Event number two of the fifth annual PSYCHEDELIA is more than just a bouldering comp it's a black-light, dance around, pre-halloween, climb-for-all rave, with a costume contest and creative finals problems on glow-in-the-dark holds, complete with awesome raffles, free food from Wahoo's Fish Tacos as well as free beer from Avery Brewing Company. Don't miss next year! For more info visit: TheSpotGym.com
Climbing in Suesca, Colombia
Photos by Sebastian Mejia, Ricardo Ernesto, Nestor Contreras, J. Cruikshank and Carole Lunny - Colombia is a country full of legends and myths, and Suesca, just 45 kilometres north of Bogotá, has its fair share of ghost tales, supernatural drumming, and flying witches. Suesca is a popular weekend destination for climbers of all levels. It is the best area in Colombia for both traditional and sport climbing, and boasts over 400 routes from 5.4 to 5.14. The walls are up to 125 metres high and follow the railway tracks and a small river. Read Ghosts, the Rock Gods, and Colombian Climbing by Carole Lunny for more.
Climbing in Northern California
Photos by Alton Richardson / www.altonrichardson.com - This gallery features climbing from all around Northern California including Yosemite, Mickey’s Beach, Tahoe, Castle Rock State Park, Berkeley, Sonora and Bishop and also features many nor-cal climbers and local strongmen like Eric Sanchez and Jessie Palomino. Alton Richardson is a Northern California based photographer with a passion for documenting climbing and evolving the ways that climbing is photographed. His work is about being creative and organic while incorporating the natural elements of the outdoor world with a vision of innovation.
13th Annual Yank & Yard on Yale
Photos by Michael Clark / www.michaelclarkphoto.com - The Yank & Yard on Yale, kicking off Stone Age Climbing Gym's 2009 Prime8 Festival held on October 17th, in Albuquerque, New Mexico, was one of the biggest bouldering comps the land of enchantment has ever seen. The problems were set by Timy Fairfield in collaboration with Stone Age's head route setter Lance Hadfield. This year included a $3000 cash purse for the top men and women competitors plus a huge prize raffle totaling over $6000 in value. Julian Buatista of Placentia, CA, took the win in the men's open class and Alex Puccio of Boulder, CO, won the women's. Live DJ, after competition party, awards ceremony complete with food, drink, and much merry making completed an action packed day. For more information and results visit: ClimbStoneAge.com
Austrians In Rocklands, South Africa
Photos by Emanuel Moosburger - Emanuel Moosburger of Innsbruck, Austria recently amassed an impressive ticklist from July 27 September 12, 2009, during a trip to the sandstone bouldering mecca, Rocklands in South Africa. Highlights were about 30 problems V10 and harder including: 11 V11s, 6 V12s, 5 V13s and a V14 repeat (at night by headlamp) of Fred Nicole’s Mooiste Maise that was believed to be unclimbable after a crucial hold had broken. One of Moosburger’s prized days consisted of sending Royksopp (V11), Armed Response (V13) and The Vice (V13) all in a single day. Shown in this gallery are some of the problems from his trip mentioned above plus: Tea Lady Roof (V9), Pinotage Sit (V10), Roof is on Fire (V5), Caroline (V10), Human Energy (V6/7) and more.
Hound Ears, NC - 2009 Triple Crown Bouldering Series
Photos by Jeff Zimmerman / JeffZimmermanPhotography.com - On October 3rd, 2009, hundreds of climbers converged at the Hound Ears boulders near Boone for their once a year chance to climb on one of North Carolina's choicest boulderfields. Jimmy Webb scored the win in the Men's Open category this year and Sasha DiGuilian was victorious the Women's Open. Visit triplecrownbouldering.org to see the full results. The next event will be held at Horse Pens-40 in Steele, AL on November 7th, and will conclude at the Stone Fort in Chattanooga, TN on December 5th.
2009 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell
Photos by Lucas Marshall / www.lucasmarshall.com - 2009's fourth annual 24 HHH brought many new and exciting variables to the table. Ample rain, Tommy Caldwell, mucho loud screaming and the best event to ever grace the walls of Arkansas' Horseshoe Canyon Ranch was eventually how it all turned out. In this unique endurance climbing challenge, participants attempt to cleanly lead as many routes as they can in 24 hours, with more points for harder routes and trad climbs. September 25-27, 2009 had over 500 people slammed into Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in the form of 230 competitors, over 60 volunteers, and spectators. Camaraderie was high. Competition was fierce. Visit TwoFourHell.com for more info.
California Bouldering - A Way of Life
Photos by Brooks Institute student Richard Tyler Gross / www.rtylergross.com - This collection of bouldering images, shot in 2008 and 2009, was gathered from a few areas in Southern California like Santa Barbara, Bishop, Joshua Tree, and Pine Mountain. These places offer stunning views and allow one to truly feel connected to Mother Nature and her elements. These images help support why bouldering is more than a just sport or social gathering; it is a way of life. It is a personal test of the soul as well as a development of trust in oneself. Bouldering has a spirituality, and it is my aim to capture that within these photographs. My passion for photography and the outdoors is an ongoing quest of finding the perfect balance within myself, nature, and the subject being photographed.
Eternal Mountain Landscapes
Photos by Brooks Institute student Richard Tyler Gross / www.rtylergross.com - The images of R. Tyler Gross reflect a vision into his soul through which he invites others to share in his experience. Landscape and wildlife photography were initially what ignited the fire, what is now an eternal flame, of his photographic career. He feels that the more he can connect with the natural world, and its energy, the better he can express the undying beauty of this land and his vision. His passion for photography and the outdoors is an ongoing quest of finding the perfect balance within himself, nature, and the subject being photographed.
Climbing Quinto Imperio on Naranjo de Bulnes, Spain
Photos courtesy of Leopoldo Faria - At the end of August 2009, Leopoldo Faria and Pedro Nogueira established the first repeat of Quinto Imperio (V 5.13d or 8b) on the West Face of Spain's most famous big wall, Naranjo de Bulnes (also known as Picu Urriellu). Quinto Império is a 500 meter long route that was opened in 1996 by the Portuguese climbers Francisco Ataide and Sergio Martins and first free climbed by the Pou brothers in June 2009. The Naranjo de Bulnes is one of the most impressive limestone walls in Europe with orange and gray colors on solid rock that offers super technical climbing with not so easy protection. Read more.
IFSC European Youth Series - Edinburgh, Scotland
Photos by Lukasz Warzecha / LWimages.co.uk - On September 19-20, 2009, the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena in Ratho hosted the IFSC's European Youth Series Climbing Competition. 147 of the world's best young competitiors, from 17 different countries, climbed on EICA's awe-inspiring adjustable angle competition wall. Mario Lechner of Austria closely won the Junior Men's class despite an injury to his knee that he suffered while warming up on Saturday (only one point split the difference between 1st and 3rd place). France's Charlotte Durif Won the Junior Women's class and is unbeaten so far this year in the European Youth Series. For more see the report on planetfear.com and visit ifsc-climbing.org for full results.
Eighth Annual HERA Climb4Life - Salt Lake City, Utah
Photos by John Evans / JohnEvansPhoto.com - The ultimate rock climbing fund-raising event for the HERA Women’s Cancer Foundation was presented and hosted by Black Diamond Climbing Equipment on September 17-20, 2009 (September is National Ovarian Cancer Awareness Month). This year's event featured two days of climbing with professional athletes in the Wasatch Mountains, climbing instruction for beginners by Exum Utah, yoga classes, massage, a tribute to HERA Founder Sean Patrick, plus parties and more. The HERA Climb4Life Utah is the signature event of the HERA Climb4Life series don't miss it next year! Visit HERAFoundation.org/SLC for more.
Lead Climbing World Cup - Barcelona, Spain
Photos by Lukasz Warzecha - www.LWimages.co.uk - Czech superstar Adam Ondra took another victory at the World Cup Lead Competition in Barcelona, Spain, on August 8-9, 2009. Julian Puigblanque came second with the Japanese Sachi Amma on the third place. For the women Maja Vidmar took the victory with Angela Eiter and Jain Kim tieing for second place. The competition took place in the Palau St Jordi, one of the buildings from the 1992 Olympic village complex. Click here to see the full results at ifsc-climbing.org.
Photos from the Dimai-Eötvös, Tofana di Rozes, Dolomites, Italy
Photos courtesy of Enrico Maioni / www.guidedolomiti.com
- How can a grown, educated man, be obsessed by a mountain? This is what I have experienced and want to describe. It is a mountain I know well, the Tofana di Rozes. I have been going to Cortina since I was a small child, and I have been taking countless hikes around it. It cannot fail to impress any passer-by: you see it as soon as you enter the valley of Cortina, towering as the leftmost of the most famous massif in the valley of the 3 Tofane. Read more.
Searching for Alpine Perfection in the Bugaboos
Photos by Gerhard Schaar / GerhardSchaar.com - Nesteled in British Columbia's Purcell Mountains is Bugaboo Provincial Park home to some the finest alpine multi-pich granite in North America. Bugaboo Spire, Snowpatch, Pigeon, the Howser Towers ... climbers from all over the world all celebrate this remote and rugged wonderland of spires. Standard proceedure, before venturing into the wilds is to wrap your car with chicken wire, protecting it from the rubber eating porcupines. Shown is this gallery, Schaar has captured many stuning views and routes such as: the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire, the SE Ridge of Brenta Spire, the NE Ridge Bugaboo Spire, the Kraus McCarty and Sunshine Crack on Snowpatch Spire.
Monkey Face Highlinin'
Words and photos by Tyler Roemer - On July 2009 a crew of Oregonians rigged up a highline on the 350-foot Monkey Face on the backside of Oregon's Smith Rock State Park, home to routes: Just Do It (5.14c), the Backbone (5.13a), Spank the Monkey (5.12a) and Astro Monkey (5.11d). With their tension system tight, harnesses, and fall leashes quadruple checked Joel Sprenger, Chuck Williams, and Tyge Shelby inch their way into the mouth of the Monkey. The highline session went into the evening hours with knee drops, turn arounds, pounding hearts, and only a couple falls in the bag. A quote that resonated through the evening was, “Who needs to jump out of a plane when you have this.” Greg Garretson. See more at tylerroemer.blogspot.com
Brooklyn Boulders Grand Opening
Photos courtesy of BrooklynBoulders.com - On September 9th, 2009, Brooklyn Boulders celebrated the Grand Opening of its brand new 18,000 square foot facility that features 30-foot high ceilings, two massive bouldering caves with 15º, 30º and 45º walls, with loads of topropes and lead climbing. The facility has around 5,000 square feet of southwest-facing windows, and bay doors on opposite sides of our block, so you can enjoy natural lighting and breezes all day. Brooklyn Boulders is open Sun-Thurs: 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Friday 10 a.m. to 2 a.m.; Saturday 10 a.m. to midnight. Check them out at: 575 Degraw Street, Brooklyn, NY 11217. See UCMAG's Plastic Paradise for more info.
Belgian Expedition to Baffin Island
Photos by Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Stephane Hanssens, Sean Villanueva and Silvia Vidal / Xpedition.be - The Belgian team of Olivier and Nicolas Favresse, Stephane Hanssens, and Sean Villanueva completed a remarkable expedition to Auyuittuq National Park on Baffin Island, during which they established three new routes, nearly free-climbed a big-wall route on Mt. Asgard along with Silvia Vidal, and repeated another big-wall climb. Click here to read a trip report by Nicolas Favresse.
Arco Rock Master and Rock Legends
Photos by Torsten Wenzler / Torstenwenzler.de - Angela Eiter from Austria has won her fifth Rock Master, Ramòn Julien Puigblanque of Spain his fourth on September 5-6, 2009, in Arco (Lake Garda, Trentino, Italy). With these victories the two equal the records set by legendary climbers Lynn Hill and Francois Legrand. 2009 will be remembered as the Rock Master of surprises. An edition which combined, within the short space of just one morning, great disappointments and even greater emotions which only cutting-edge sport is capable of producing. Don't miss next year's event on July 16-17, 2010, and the IFSC Climbing World Championship which Arco will host in 2011. Read more. For more information visit: RockMaster.com
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